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A Jib is like a crane for your video camera. If you're a movie buff, then you've seen jib shots,
unmistakably smooth shots that often start high and swoop in closer to the action or visa versa.
A well planned jib shot adds instant professionalism to any project. The decision to use a jib
is an easy one, but the cost of acquiring a jib is another story. In my exhaustive search for
an affordable jib, I found units ranging from as high as several thousands of dollars, to as low
as $280 (without a tripod to support it). If heavy duty tripods capable of supporting these 12 lbs.
units (without a camera mounted) didn't cost an additional $200-$300 I probably would have just
purchased one. Unfortunately they do...so I didn't.
The challenge was to build a jib that had acceptable reach, fluid movement, decent balance,
was light enough to mount atop a $20 budget tripod without collapsing, and to do it all for $60.
Many of you may have seen Johnny Chung Lee's $14 Steadycam.
I used Mr. Lee's design to build my own steadycam that I'm quite please with, and I designed my jib to
use the same counter weight so that I can interchange between the two rigs. As a parallel project to
Mr. Lee's Steadycam, and in the spirit of cost effective filmmaking, I offer you my experience building
a $60 Jib.
This jib was designed to be usable atop a very low-end tripod. That being said, weight was my number
one priority. Second, it's important to point out that the video camera I use is a very small palm-style
camera. If you are using a heavier camera that requires additional counter balancing weight, you
would be wise to invest in a more rigid tripod. I have seen tripods capable of holding 11 lbs.
advertised for around $80. My lightweight, inexpensive tripod was $20. The entire jib, without
counter weight or tripod, weighs about 1.5 lbs. I add my camera that weighs about 1/2 lb. and 5 lbs.
of counter weight to the back of the tripod for a total of 7 lbs. Most low-end tripods are rated for 6-8 lbs.
Below is a list of tools, hardware, and materials that you'll need.
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- 1/4" drill bit
- 5/16" drill bit (not shown)
- Pencil
- Flat tip screw driver
- Two 7/16" wrenches
- Two 1/2" wrenches
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- Two 1" x 8' aluminum tubes
Very light and sturdy
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- One 1/8" x 1 1/4" x 4' weld steel
Strong but pliable enough to make clean bends
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- One 1/4" flat washer
- One 1/4" wing nut
- Two 1/4" lock washers
- One 1 1/2" x 1/4" screw
- Two 1/4" nuts
LOWE'S Shopping List
| Part# |
LOWE'S Description |
Description |
Price |
Quantity |
Total |
| 55978 |
1" x 8' Aluminum Tube (Round) |
1" x 8' Aluminum Tube x2 |
17.27 |
2 |
34.54 |
| 69725 |
1/8" x 1 1/4" x 4' Weld Steel F |
1/8" x 1 1/4" x 4" Steel for brackets |
6.98 |
1 |
6.98 |
| 138641 |
Clevis Pin Adjustable 1/4" |
Push Pins x4 |
1.87 |
4 |
7.48 |
| 154210 |
1/16" x 1 5/16" Hitch Pin Cli |
Cotter Pins x4 |
0.73 |
2 |
1.46 |
| 22016 |
1/2" x 4" Black Pipe Nipple |
1/2" x 4" Threaded Gas Pipe |
1.07 |
1 |
1.07 |
| 213987 |
M8-1.25x30 Flange Bolts M |
Bolts |
3.02 |
1 |
3.02 |
| 52553 |
Nut M8 x 1.25mm |
Nuts |
3.27 |
1 |
3.27 |
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Total |
57.82 |
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| Jib Bracket |
Camera Mount |
- The first thing we're going to do is measure out our steel lengths that will be used to make the camera mount and jib mount.
- From one end of the steel, measure 17 1/2".
- Draw a line and place the steel in your vice to make the cut with your hacksaw.
- After that cut, take the remaining 30 1/2" and measure out another length 15 1/4".
- Draw a line and place the steel back in your vice to make the second cut with your hacksaw.
- The remaining 15 1/4" is scrap.
- Next we will shape our jib bracket out of the 17 1/2" piece of steel.
- Measure 8" from one end and draw a line, and then measure another 8" in from the other end and draw a line. You should be left with about 1 1/2" in the middle.
- Place the steal back in the vice so that 8" are sticking out the top of the vice.
- Apply force at the base of the protruding steel to force a clean 90 degree bend.
- Take it out of the vice and flip it so the other end 8" is now sticking out the top of the vice.
- Apply force at the base of the protruding steel to force a second clean 90 degree bend forming a U shape.
- Next we'll move on to the camera mount.
- Measure 8" from one end and draw a line.
- Place the steel in your vice so that 8" are sticking out the top of the vice and the remaining 7 1/4" are pointing straight down.
- Apply force at the base of the protruding steel to force a clean 90 degree bend.
- We'll start by measuring our points and drilling the jib bracket.
- On each side of the U shape, measure and mark 1/2" down from the top, exactly in the middle.
- From the top again, measure 4 3/4" down and once again mark exactly in the middle.
- Duplicate this on the opposite side and you should now have 4 marks ready for drilling.
- Place the bracket in your vice and drill all four holes with a 1/4" drill bit.
- At the bottom of the bracket we need to drill holes to match the mounting pattern of your tripod so that we can ultimately place this bracket on top of the tripod and use our 1/4" thumb nut to tighten it down as shown below.
- Next we'll measure, mark and drill the camera mount.
- On the 8" side of the mount, duplicate the measurements you made above on each side of the U bracket. One mark 1/2" down from the top, and the other mark 4 3/4" down from the top.
- On the 7 1/4" side of the mount, measure 1" from the end and mark exactly in the middle.
- Drill all three holes to achieve the example below.
- One of our 1" x 8' aluminum tubes will remain 8', while the other tube needs to be cut down by removing 21 1/2" from the end.
- For my 5 lb. counter weight, I bolted together two 2 1/2 lb weights and bolted them to a 1/2" gas pipe cap using Johnny Chung Lee's $14 Steadycam.
- If you decide to use the same design, then take your 1/2" x 4" black gas pipe and screw your 1/2" gas pipe cap on the end.
- Insert this pipe into one end (future handle end) of the 8' aluminum tube.
- Drill two holes through both the aluminum tube and the inserted gas pipe using a 5/15" drill bit so that you can use your 5/16" x 1 1/4" bolts, 5/16" lock washers, and 5/16" nuts to bolt the gas pipe to the end of the aluminum tube as shown below.
- Now you can remove the cap to expose only the threads needed to attach the counter weight. Keep the cap, and use it when transporting the jib to protect the threads and your fingures
- Now we can mark and drill our tubes.
- The exact placement of the drill holes depend on the weight of your camera, how much counter weight you have, and whether you prefer the rig to be camera heavy or camera light. What is very important, is that the holes on one tube match as close to exact as possible, the holes on the other tube. Here are examples of my front and back drill hole placement. Please remember that all aluminum tube holes must be parallel. i.e. If your first hole is drilled horizontally through the tube then all remaining holes must match that horizontal direction.
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| Front |
Back |
- After you finish drilling one front hole in each tube and one back hole in each tube, you can begin assembly.
- First attach the camera mount to the front of both aluminum tubes.
- After attaching the camera mount to the tubes, attach the camera mounting screw to the single holed side of the camera mount. The sequence of hardware is as follows:
- Screw a 1/4" nut all the way to the base of the 1 1/2" x 1/4" screw.
- Add a 1/4" lock washer.
- Insert the screw through the camera mount hole.
- Add another 1/4" lock washer.
- Add another 1/4" nut
- When attaching a camera, remove the washer, screw the wing nut on upside down and then reapply the washer. Twist the camera onto the 1/4" screw until desired location is reach and then use the wing nut under the washer to tighten the camera down. The washer prevents the wing nut from digging into the camera body.
- Next attach the jib bracket to both tubes.
- If you built a counter weight using Johnny Chung Lee's $14 Steadycam design, attach it now by unscrewing the gas pipe cap, and screwing on your weight.
- Assembly is now complete, attach it to your tripod, attach your camera, and enjoy!
© 2006 ClosetFilms.com All Rights Reserved.
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